Butootah

Posted on: December 11, 2015

Rajasthan never enticed me much. Except that I wanted to mark my footprints in the sands of the Thar Desert. A mountain person and wilderness explorer, I was reluctant to invest a fortnight escape from my mundane corporate job on a busy and crowded land famous for people and culture. However, it happened in November of 2015.

Day 1

Right in the noon on November 16, 2015, my friend and I reached Jaipur. We booked a guest house. We freshened up and went exploring the city, the main market and the gates (the pink city has many gates). It was a huge market mix of Janpath, Sarojini Nagar and Chandani Chowk. I was disappointed and we reached Hawa Mahal. A place we had heard so much about since our childhood. I wouldn’t have appreciated Hawa Mahal had I not suffered the ordeal of swaying through the whole of Jaipur market. It definitely saved our day.

Inside Hava Mahal, Jaipur, Rajasthan (Photo ©butootah)

Stained Glass, Hava Mahal, Jaipur, Rajasthan (Photo ©butootah)

Day 2

I had to witness Chand Baori in Abhaneri village, Dausa District, about 100 kilometers from Jaipur. We rented a bike and rode to the place. I had seen the pictures of the gigantic step well and knew that something spectacular is ahead. I was thrilled. Before taking the last turn towards Chand Baori, we pulled in at a diner and tried Rajasthani Kachodhi and Kadhi (Curry). I must admit, it was the best Kachodhi and Kadhi I’ve ever smacked in my life.

When we reached the place, I was not surprised to find no desi tourists and just a handful of firangis. When we entered, I was disappointed to see all fencing around the baori so no one can step in. It was sad that Christopher Nolan and Christian Bale could enter with a whole crew of Dark Night series in that beauty to feel it from the inside and we were restricted.

Front of Chand Baori, Abhaneri village, Dausa district, Rajasthan (Photo ©butootah)

Chand Baori, Abhaneri village, Dausa district, Rajasthan (Photo ©butootah)

Anyway, all the love I bear for geometry and symmetry took a shape of that step well I was standing above of. Build in 800 AD, this magnificent and mesmerizing water source has stood its test of time. To mention, it still has water in it, though with an algae layer on top of it. I was totally starstruck and could not hold myself. I had to live that beauty. I felt as if I was traveling back in time. I had to get my shots of this wonder I came all the way for. I crossed the fence and was a level down with my friend’s DSLR in my hand. I took the shot I wanted before the guard realized. Of course, I apologized and came out. Oh yes we also touched Ambar Fort and Nahargarh Fort, from the outside, before the day ended.

Day 3

We pushed off to Pushkar in the morning, one place I was least interested to visit. I knew that I was approaching the most crowded place on earth probably. And we had to struggle to get some decent food in budget. Well the first day at Pushkar was a total disappointment. We reached in the afternoon, found hotel and freshened up and went exploring the small town, I’ll rather call it a village, with more people than it could accommodate. The Sarojini Nagar market feel was to hover everywhere, I felt. My desperation level was rising, I wanted to escape the feel of busy markets and swarm of people. Darkness fell and we came back after the tour.

Day 4

In the night I had asked people about the lights flickering on top of the hill in front of the hotel. It was not the famous Savitri Temple, this was Gayatri Temple. In the morning, we started for Gayatri hill. Being an atheist, I by-passed the temple and went at the back. There was another hill there. A beautiful quiet summit was inviting me. I knew I had to conquer it and rest my afternoon there. I told my friend I am going there and asked him to come in a while as well. Finally Pushkar showed me something to cherish about. At the summit I realized that Pushkar is a valley. It was peaceful up there as I basked the Sun and relaxed. I could see cluster of sand dunes with bushes ornamenting them. I was at the back of the busy town having the time to myself. We went back to the town, ate kachodhi and kadhi in the lunch again and drank sugar cane juice.

Summit behind Gayatri temple, Pushkar, Rajasthan (Photo ©butootah)

We started towards Savitri hill. It was not a short walk till the foothill through the mini desert hosting the camel trade fair. It was dust and camel dung everywhere. Not a patch of sand sans footprints. We walked through the whole camel fair and then climbed the mighty flight of stairs of Savitri hill. I went past the temple to the back and settled down around the sunset point. There was still time for the Sun to set, so we waited. From there we could make out how the two hills literally marked two ends of the town. Savitri hill indeed served one of the best sunsets I have witnessed. The sands made the earth and the sky with hot air balloons hanging from it made the show of the Sun set in Aravalis. I sat there fixing it in my mind and capturing the horizon in my shot until the sun completely hid out. The same night we boarded the bus for Udaipur and reached there the next morning around 0600 hrs.

Sunset from Savitri temple, Pushkar, Rajasthan (Photo ©butootah)

Day 5

With the Sun rising, we reached the yellow city of ghats, Udaipur. The acclaimed Venice of India. I liked Udaipur, however, won’t dare to compare it with Venice. Please! We checked in our hotel. My friend was absolutely tired of the last day’s double trek. I was all excited and went about the city around 0730 hrs, exploring ghats and floating in the streets. Our hotel was very close to walking bridge, which was a very strategic location. I started with walking bridge and first reached Hanuman Ghat where I sat to witness how the morning glory lit the whole city golden. Priests bathed at the ghat to commence their day. I sat there for hours enjoying the warmth of the water rising with the morning air.

Morning at Hanuman Ghat, Lake Pichola, Udaipur, Rajasthan (Photo ©butootah)

I went back to the hotel around 1100 hrs where my friend was ready and waiting. I quickly freshened up and we started for the City Palace. The ‘touch me not’ palace could not hold my interest much. After the tour of the palace, my friend went back to the hotel. I still had the evening with me and went about the city and reached Ambarai Ghat. I entered the rooftop restaurant that would have given me the best shot of Hanuman Ghat and Walking Bridge together. I wished, I could just sit there for the whole night. Then I went to the ghat again to get the shot of Bagore ki Haveli and City Palace glittering in night lights and finally returned to hotel.

View of Hanuman Ghat and Walking Bridge, Lake Pichola, Udaipur, Rajasthan (Photo ©butootah)

Rooftop restaurant, Lake Pichola, Udaipur, Rajasthan (Photo ©butootah)

Night at rooftop restaurant, Lake Pichola, Udaipur, Rajasthan (Photo ©butootah)

Lit City Palace, shot from Ambarai Ghat, Lake Pichola, Udaipur, Rajasthan (Photo ©butootah)

Day 6

The last but not the least day. We started late. This was my last day as I had to return truncating the trip in between and leaving my friend behind to cover the other points, viz. Kumbalgarh and Jaisalmer. We ate breakfast at the home kitchen restaurant best serving north Indian food. The day’s attraction was Sajjangarh Fort. This was something I was looking for. Abandoned and offering picturesque view of Aravali range, distant from the city and far less crowded with no restrictions. The one place I want to revisit along with Chand Baori from the trip during Monsoon. The magnificent door made the grandeur of the entrance from the outside, while the thatched roof gave it oriental look from the inside.

Gates and front facade of Sajjangarh Fort, Udaipur, Rajasthan (Photo ©butootah)

Entrance of Sajjangarh Fort from the inside, Udaipur, Rajasthan (Photo ©butootah)

Through the main hall lost in time, we climbed to the second floor. I felt like I was in some dream land when I looked at the Aravali range through the ruined arches of the palace. I sat in the balconies of the solitary palace for a very long time. I wanted to witness sunset there, however, my clock was ticking as I was to board the 1800 hrs bus to Delhi. I took the final shots I wanted from my phone that proved that a DSLR is not necessary if you have the imagination and eye for the spectacles you witness.

Aravali Hills through ruined arches of Sajjangarh Fort, Udaipur, Rajasthan (Photo ©butootah)

Jaisalmer! I missed you, you are due. I shall return in next winter to swim in your sands. But first, I need my own machine to drive through this arid land. Also, all the photographs shared here, except for the two shots of Chand Baori, are shot from mobile phone (Samsung Galaxy Note 3, mega pixels: 13).

Posted on: May 13, 2013

It was a matter of chance that I touched heaven. My journey was planned. I was to reach Jammu from Srinagar via National Highway 1. However, my driver had another plan. He told me that he would drive me to Jammu not via the highway but another road. He promised me picturesqueness on the way. I was tempted! The driver was a trusted one. Finally, he revealed that he will drive through the historic Mughal Road. This was my chance to witness Pir ki Gali!

I had never thought that one day I would so casually drive through mighty Pir Panjal Range We deviated from Pampore. We drove through Pulwama and Shopian districts. The drive through the almond and apricot orchids was making me restless already. Pretty brooks running appeared every now and then. It was getting difficult for me to sustain the anticipation of witnessing what lay ahead. I had heard a lot about Mughal Road. A colleague from my previous office had recently toured the route on his bike. I had not imagined my visit to valley will close with such stupendous return journey. It was a beautiful surprise!

After driving for couple of hours, I could see the snow caps rising through the gathered clouds. All I wanted was one single shot that could contain experience of the whole journey. Mughal road runs at an altitude of around 11,500 ft through Pir Panjal and connects districts Shopian and Poonch of provinces Kashmir and Jammu, respectively.

As we were driving I saw Aliabad Sarai pass by. Since we were running short on time, we had to drive relentlessly. In some time I realized we were driving through the top peaks. The beauty my eyes witnessed I cannot describe in words. Soon, we approached Pir ki Gali, the magnificent mountain pass not many people get the privilege to witness. The driver pulled in at the check post. He said I could get out and shoot photographs now.

I was at Pir ki Gali, the road from where Mughal emperor Jahangir, with his beloved wife Noor Jahan, use to travel to visit Kashmir. Absolutely serene and undisturbed by human activity, this medieval road was so pristine that there was not a single commercial shop or any kind or tourist shop anywhere throughout the journey. There was only wilderness spread across in all the directions. I took my shot (shared below) and wondered what it feels like when you are absolutely into the wild.

Pir ki Gali serves as an alternate entrance to Jammu province from Kashmir province. We drove through Poonch and Rajouri districts and saw Noori Chamb (the waterfall where Noor Jahan use to bathe and refresh), crossed Bafliaz bridge, we drove through Thanamandi and reached Jammu via Sunderbani village, which has the popular Thanda Pani close by. It was a surprise experience. However, due to nick of time, we didn't have chance to pull in at any of the mentioned points and take photographs. I hope some day I will drive through Mughal Road again and hopefully it will remain as raw and natural as it was on October 19, 2012.